Showing posts with label nonfiction. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nonfiction. Show all posts

Jan 3, 2010

A Merry Bill Holm Christmas

Cabins of Minnesota, by Bill Holm. Photography by Doug Ohman. Minnesota Byways Series. St. Paul: Minnesota Historical Society Press, 2007. 128 pgs.

I was delighted to receive a copy of this book from Jody in Minnesota. It is fun to read (Bill wrote the text), and fun to enjoy all the cabin photos--it may also give us some planning ideas for the Condemnation Plantation. As I read through it last night I was delighted to find that Bill spends the last chapter ruminating on time spent at his cabin in Hofsós, Iceland. When we met Bill in Hofsós he visited us at the house we were renting, and while we have photos of his house (cabin), we don't have any photos of him in front of it. Now that I own this book we do! A great Christmas gift, Jody; thank you.

Oct 11, 2008

Frost on my moustache

Sailing Trilogy, Pt. 3

Frost on My Moustache: The Arctic Exploits of a Lord and a Loafer, by Tim Moore. New York: St. Martin's, 2001. (First published 1999.) 280 pgs.




So here is this British guy, Tim Moore, known for his humorous essays and books--a sort of George Plimpton meets Bill Bryson kind of fellow. Moore's Icelandic wife Birna picked up a copy of Dufferin's Letters from High Latitudes at a used bookstore, and eventually Moore perused it. He became hooked.

Being a naturally enthusiastic type, Moore immediately decided to replicate the Dufferin saga, following in the Lord’s (boat) wake, so to speak. I started counting how many times Moore came to regret that decision, but lost track.

Moore begins his epic journey by traveling to Clandeboye, the Irish ancestral home of Lord Dufferin, to meet the current Marchioness of Dufferin and Ava. In the process of making a spectacle of himself Moore discovers that he is not of their ilk and betakes himself off to and other, more remote, places.

Not in a position to travel in the luxurious footsteps of Lord Dufferin "... and other first-generation eco-tourists" (Evelyn Waugh, William Morris, W.H. Auden…), Moore starts his journey on a container ship, rather than a schooner. Misadventures await. As he relates each stage of his journey he inserts Dufferin quotes and related anecdotes. "I'd come to accept that all along I’d been pitting myself against Dufferin." On reaching Iceland, Moore finds his opportunity to escape from his vast inferiority complex, and gets on his bicycle in order to "out-Dufferin Dufferin."

Dufferin had highly anticipated the journey through the forbidding interior lava highlands of Iceland on horseback. But he lavished a quantity of days camping in high style and playing chess. Dufferin spent too much time camping, waiting for geysers to erupt, and partying with Prince Napoleon and his entourage, and ran out of time. After completing the modern-day Golden Circle, Dufferin left Iceland to continue his journey before the fall set in. Moore recreates the part of the journey that Dufferin planned but didn’t take. Instead of traveling with guides and servants on Icelandic horses, Moore journeys through the desolate highland on his bicycle, accompanied by his brother-in-law. These misadventures are related with memorable catchphrases that you can memorize and adapt for your own personal adventures: "I have done that—it is only a little stream" (when faced with a raging torrent); "Why did you not make such a study?" (i.e., why the h*** didn’t you research this first?).

Crippled but still standing, albeit bent, Moore makes it across Iceland, then travels back to Reykjavik and on to Hofn by means of standard contemporary transportation. In Hofn he meets up with a convoy of "Viking ships" and sails on to Norway, ultimately attempting Jan Mayen by Norweigan transport plane, and gaining Spitzbergen by ship. Moore's adventures on the remote island of Spitzbergen are truly epic, and include his exceptional interview with "The Syssel 'mann'."

In the course of his Grand Adventure/Misadventure, Tim Moore comes to identify himself more closely with Dufferin’s manservant Wilson than with Dufferin himself. And if he never truly understands Dufferin, he does feel a close empathy with him by the end of his travails. An additional treat to this highly entertaining jaunt is the epilogue, which features some surprise information about the dour Wilson.

Jul 25, 2008

Windows

Windows of Brimnes: An American in Iceland, by Bill Holm. Minneapolis: Milkweed, 2007. 216 pgs. Endpapers include maps of Iceland and of Skagafjörður.




The challenge: Prof. Batty and I were reading this book at about the same time, so we decided to post our reviews simultaneously. Thus the reader can be assured of complete objectivity... ahem.

Who is Bill Holm? He is one of my favorite authors, an educator and seeker of knowledge; an irascible, radical, cranky defender of liberty and justice. You’ll find many references to him in this blog by using the search box in the upper left corner. This is his most recent book—Bill has written or contributed to over a dozen other volumes of poetry and prose, fiction and nonfiction.

Sveit is a recurring theme in this book. Sveit can be summarized as community, or, perhaps, what connects to your heart.

Who or what is my sveit? According to Bill Holm’s definition, it might be the readers of this blog—people captivated by Iceland, and by Icelandic literature. One’s sveit might go beyond family and borders, especially when assisted by books, or by the internet. The internet has enabled a group of bloggers who are tied together by things Icelandic to be a community of sorts. Holm himself is responsible for the Icelandic sveit I feel a part of…not because he writes blogs, but because his books piqued my interest in Icelandic literature, and, subsequently, Iceland.

Bill Holm’s sveit is grandly large, composed of Minnesota, Iceland, China, choral music, Bach and Halldór Laxness, just to begin the list. And Brimnes.

As Holm tells it, he had visited Hofsós, in northern Iceland, a number of times. “By my third or fourth trip to Hofsós I had fallen completely in love with the place, so much so that it had become my imaginary sveit.” When he discovered that Brimnes, the tiny cottage he was staying in, was for sale, he immediately decided to purchase it.

You can imagine the joy I felt visiting Hofsós in 2006, where my family and I met Bill Holm, and experienced first hand the community of Hofsós where he now lives for three months of each year. During our visit with him he told us of his upcoming book: The Windows of Brimnes. In fact, the last chapter of the book, Fog, was written at the time we visited Brimnes, and fog is exactly what we found there.

Holm does not choose seclusion in a remote town in Iceland as an escape. The chapters in this book demonstrate that he is always thinking, looking: forward and back in history, and from Iceland to the United States and back. The first and last chapters are about Brimnes, Holm’s windows there framing not only the book itself, but all of its internal inquiry.

One chapter focuses on Skagafjörður, the fjörd on which Hofsós, and consequently Holm, find themselves.

Skagafjörður is a fat fjörd with a wide mouth open to all the light it can drink, every last smidgeon it can suck out of the sun, or even an intense winter moon or the northern lights…This is…a laughing Buddha fjörd…a fjörd that embraces the visible world.

Do I anthropomorphize a fjörd too much? Nonsense, I cannot anthropomorphize enough. If people have characters peculiarly their own, why should we deny one to a fjörd?...Your place on this planet…is where (among other things) the light feels right to you.

And, he concludes, “If you wish to observe the Icelandic landscape, you had best like the long view.” Amen for the long view! After you contemplate the long view in Skagafjörður, Holm says, “All you need now is a few lines of properly rhymed Icelandic poetry to mumble to yourself as you begin simultaneously weeping and laughing.” Many is the time, reading Holm, when I have simultaneously laughed and cried.

Being a part-time resident, Holm offers some insights into how Iceland is different in less-than-obvious ways:

The modern Icelander who has not left the island has thus never seen a reptile, nor an amphibian, nor skunk, coyote, muskrat, raccoon, rabbit, gopher, beaver, wolf, bear, cougar, nor any large ungulate like elk, moose, or bison. Neither has the Icelander been tortured by mosquitoes, biting blackflies…nor any of that army of insects pests…

Further, most Icelanders have not experienced thunder on their native shores. Strange to consider!

Throughout the book runs the thread of memory, ancestors, and history. In particular, Holm focuses on the Icelandic emigrant to the New World—his ancestors. His chapter “The Melancholy Quotient” takes a look at the history of some of his relatives: “Unless some damn fool writer tells the family secrets, they will soon disappear into the oblivion of history. And what confidence have you that whatever version you hear of these stories, or judgments of these characters, is accurate—much less true?”

This quote of Holm's reminded me of my husband’s genealogy interests: “Genealogy—the melancholy quotient—offers those who pursue it with care, intelligence, and no wishful thinking both a wedge into one’s personal history and the connection of the history to the larger history of human beings on the planet.” Once again Holm discourses on the meaning of truth: “genealogy casts a skeptical light on those who claim to have corralled truth…One more fact will always turn up just when you least expect it, overturning all your presumed certainties.”

Holm tells many stories of Minneota, MN, and of areas near Hofsós, as well as the areas of Iceland where his relatives came from. Thinking of the emigrant experience, Holm empathizes with their emotional upheaval:

But for the Icelanders—as for every other immigrant group to this day—the wound to the soul caused by the abrupt amputation of language, culture, history, folklore, landscape, and habits of mind and body was too much, too sudden for instant adjustment, for melting immediately into the new pot. The phantom limb still ached…

Holm thoughtfully considers the Icelandic horse; the nature of silence and contemplation; religion; and formal and informal belief systems. His anthem--consisting of faith, anger and grief over senseless destruction of lives and of nature, impatience with ignorance and false piety, praise of beauty in music, nature, literature, individual human lives--rings as strong and true in Brimnes as in his other books. Talking to Bill Holm is the same as reading him: he has strong feelings and opinions; he remains paradoxically idealistic, despite disillusionment; and he is ready and eager to compel others to think.

I learned that Bill Holm’s birthday is August 25th. This birthdate is shared with my youngest son: another ardent, observant seeker of truth. I hope that my virgo son will find fulfillment, as Holm has, in seeking and telling the truth, as he sees it, throughout his life.

Check out Flippism is the Key for Batty’s review of Windows of Brimnes! And this site, where you can listen to Bill, will give you a more personal look at the man and the artist.

As you can see, my signed copy is back from its trip to Minneota.


Nov 25, 2006

Iceland Travel Guides: Insight Guides


Iceland Insight Guide, by Jane Simmonds. New York: Langenscheidt, 2004. 378 pgs. $22.95




You need this book! Even if you don't like Iceland, buy this book--it will help change your mind. It is lush with pictures. In fact, every single page has a least one color photo; many have several. The book design makes it enticing to pick up, and difficult to put down: there are boxed insets, sidebars, special sections, maps.

The guide begins with an excellent historical section that has interesting anecdotes, literary quotations, old illustrations and maps, and all number of things to spark the reader's interest. The bulk of the book is organized by geographical area but interspersed throughout are heavily illustrated articles: the sagas, birdwatchers paradise, unusual foods, hauntings. Lots of travel tips are included, and the reference sections and maps are accessible and helpful.

We left this book at home when we traveled to Iceland: with the colored glossy pages it is rather heavy. We should have either taken with us despite its weight, or read it cover to cover before we left--it would have enhanced our appreciation of all aspects of Icelandic life considerably. This book is a hybrid: a small coffeetable book with lovely photos, and much information on history, culture and contemporary life. Consequently the information on hotels, restaurants, travel, and tourist sites isn't as detailed. For the traveler, this one won't substitute for one of the guides below, but its a wonderful addition.

Nov 16, 2006

Iceland Travel Guides: Rough Guide to Iceland

Leffman, David and James Proctor. Rough guide to Iceland. New York: Rough Guides, 2004. 399 pgs. $18.99






Color pictures, maps, reference, historical information. A good companion to the Lonely Planet guide. When looking for locations, activities, geological features and historical discussions we found more of what we were looking for in Lonely Planet than in the Rough Guide. However, there were some times that we found what we were looking for in the Rough Guide and not Lonely Planet. That's why you need both guides, and you need to bring both guides with you. If all the lodging in one of the guides is booked, or you don't find a town you are going to visit, you'll be very grateful to have a second guide to check. While the free/commercial brochures that you pick up at tourist centers in Iceland are useful, you'll find these two guides more trustworthy and objective. This one excels with its coverage of the more remote, natural areas and parks, with many detailed maps and trails included.

Nov 15, 2006

Iceland Travel Guides: Lonely Planet


If you plan to travel to Iceland, you can afford to get all the available travel guides. There are three--three that count, that is. Traveling to Iceland is an expensive proposition, and investing in these will help you make the most of your trip, and prevent you from spending more money than necessary in order to have the best possible trip. None of these guides have all the information you need, and consulting each of them will allow you to pick the best lodging, best dining, and best activities in any given area.

This Lonely Planet guide is my vote for Best All Around ("if you could only have one travel guide...").

Harding, Paul and Joe Bindloss. Iceland. Oakland: Lonely Planet, 2004. 328 pgs. $19.99





Color pictures, maps, reference pages, historical information. This guide was very reliable, and had the highest percentage of entries for all of the places, big and small, that we visited while traveling the Ring Road all the way around the island. This book was by far the most dog-eared, with the most folded-down pages, at the end of our trip. This one won't let you down.

Jul 20, 2006

Atop a Volcano

Out of the house at 8 a.m., a record for this holiday so far! We walk a few blocks to the Kokuhus bakery and sample 6 different pastries for breakfast. This is a great place! We determine to come back and buy sandwiches for our return trip on the ferry late this afternoon.

As I write in my little journal I am seated on lava at the top of Mt. Eldfell, 725' high. It is a perfect day: warm, slight breeze, cloudless, and I have a 360° view of all the islands, the mainland, the glaciers, and the sparkling ocean. This is heaven, as long as I don't allow myself to think of the scary hike back down. The "boys" (all three) are exploring the summit. They find a puffin colony below, and Ruth's "bread oven."

The story behind this volcano and its eruption is fascinating. John McPhee creates a dramatic cliffhanger in The Control of Nature (1989)--a book about "places in the world where people have been engaged in all-out battles with nature." A large section of the book describes the 1973 eruption on Heimaey and the ensuing campaign to save the island's all-important harbor. A six-month battle took place in which sea water was pumped, with hand-held hoses and by boat, in an effort to cool and direct the lava. Not only was the harbor saved and the future of the island guaranteed, but the harbor was actually improved and made more secure by the extended lava flow. John's drawing shows the view west from Eldfell.

We hike back down to the guesthouse, and speculate that the temperature must be close to 75°F. Later we find that it was only 61°--are we becoming acclimated to Iceland? Whatever the temperature, we spend some quiet moments enjoying the flowers in Ruth's garden before we embark on our next adventure, which is...Peter's first horseback ride!

Ruth's daughter Sudrun ("Sunray") accompanies us to the horsefarm, and acts as a co-guide. The other guide is Fannay (possibly spelled differently), the new school principal for the island. Since Icelanders use first names almost exclusively, we ask Fannay what the students will call her when school begins. She replies that they will address her by her first name, of course--"we want to be friends."

They take us on spirited, surefooted Icelandic horses, which are the size of ponies. We ride English-style, and get to experience the famed tolt, or 5th gait of the Icelandic horse. We find the tolt to be somewhat between a fast walk and trot, and incredibly smooth. Fannay takes us down country roads, across fields, along the black sand beach, and to steep cliffs where sheep graze and puffins fly. (The sheep come in many colors, and apparently the genuine Icelandic sweather need use no artificial dyes.) The horses are comfortable moving at a tolt through rough, rocky terrain. We are able to see a lot of the island, for Fannay keeps us at a quick pace. Unlike the sluggish walk that trail horses in the U.S. are encouraged to maintain (by guides who probably want to ensure the riders' safety at the expense of their pleasure) Fannay frequently breaks us into a tolt or canter, glancing mischieviously over her shoulder to assess our progress and our enjoyment. This is exhilarating fun on a lovely, hot sunny day: the still ocean is spread out before us, with grassy-topped islands in crazy shapes scattered about.

Fannay and Sudrun deliver us back to town with just enough time to spare so that we can pack, pay for our room, get to the bakery, and race over to the ferry--at a human trot, rather than a tolt. Just in time, we board the ferry, select our seats, eat our late lunch, and lay down on comfortable couches inside, or stretched out on benches outside, for some serious naps.

Back on the mainland we pile back into our car and drive east, counterclockwise along the Ring Road, with Heimaey visible offshore. We stop in Selfoss for groceries and a Thai meal, where our waitress enlightens us to the fact that people don't tip in restaurants in Iceland. News to us! Later I scour my three guidebooks and find absolutely no mention of this key fact: key, because food prices are extremely high even without tipping!

We stop at Skogafoss so that I can see the lovely falls at twlight. You may recall that John, Gabe and Pete saw them on their ice-climbing expedition...so, we have retraced their journey of two days ago, and are now going beyond the point where they traveled. We hike to the top of the falls, in the lovely light of 10:30 in the evening, and Peter steps close to the falls to take pictures, probably enjoying John's discomfort. I look the other way, for on this trip I have already discovered that teenage boys on steep cliffs are best ignored if one requires peace of mind.

Our lodging consists of a quaint cabin in Vik (pronounced "week") and is surely one of the best places in town, situated at the base of a huge, rocky overhang where noisy fulmars nest. A waterfall runs next to our cabin, "Sumarhusid Hotturinn." We have a kitchen, living area, loft and bath. In the guestbook we discover a fine drawing by a previous guest, showing a family cozily inside the cottage while behind, deep in the rocky cliff, a troll in a cave stirs a great pot of human limbs! I really want to steal this drawing. I refrain. We sleep very well in this idyllic, troll-infested setting.
High 61°F Low 51°F

Jul 4, 2006

Complete Sagas of Icelanders
Vidar Hreinsson, General Editor; Introduction by Robert Kellogg. Reykjavik: Leifur Eiriksson Publishing, 1997. 5 volumes.

What nicer gift for Christmas or a birthday than this? Everything you'd ever need, saga-wise. This set is a beautiful edition. The physical design of the spine and cover, the binding, and the typography are all superior. As the preface states, this set contains the "first complete, coordinated English translation of The Sagas..., forty in all, together with forty-nine of the shorter Tales...". It goes on to say that "editorial coordination has been a constant quest to balance the shared and independent characteristics of the sagas, and to re-create in English their diverse but distinctive world." They are organized by broad subject categores, such as "Tales of the Supernatural," "Regional Feuds," and so on. Reference materials are found at the end of Volume 5. All this, for just $500.

Sagas of Icelanders: A Selection

Preface by Jane Smiley; Introduction by Robert Kellogg. New York: Viking, 1997. 782 pg.

A more affordable book, containing ten sagas and seven tales reprinted from The Complete Sagas of Icelanders in one, large volume. The introduction, maps and reference materials provide context for the material, and are also excerpted from the Complete Sagas.

The selection...includes texts from most periods in the 'Age of Writing', but its chief aim is to show the diversity of good literature within the family saga canon, and it contains representatives of all main literary types, set in virtually all the known Viking world.If you don't have the money or the shelf space for the Complete Sagas, then this is an excellent alternative.

Or what about another favorite of mine, the Penguin Classics: small, transportable paperbacks, convenient to carry with you. The Penguin sagas have really excellent translators such as Hermann Pálsson and Magnus Magnusson. Many of the best sagas are available in Penguin editions...search the Penguin site using the term "sagas."

May 21, 2006

Iceland from an anthropologist's view



I just finished reading Icelandic Essays: explorations in the anthropology of modern life, by E. Paul Durrenberger (1995). He begins his book with a quote:

Long ago [1875] Richard Burton warned of a condition he labeled "Iceland on the brain," which overtakes some foreigners who get so romantically involved with Iceland that they see everything through rosy lenses.

I don't believe that this happened to W.H. Auden. To be honest, it has happened to me. But I anticipate that when I visit Iceland and fantasy becomes reality--rainy, cold weather and all--I will still be crazy about Iceland, even without rosy lenses. We'll see!

Durrenberger, let's call him Paul, explores the "Skipper Effect," Elves, the sagas and their effect (or lack of effect) on Icelandic society today, among other things. Paul, like Bill Holm, went to work on a remote farm in order to learn Icelandic. He went back time after time, because being an actual part of a working farm enabled him to not only to learn the language, but also to be able to draw anthropological conclusions based on personal experience and observation, rather than research removed from the source.

Paul has some unusual points of view as well as some ideas that I find a little reactionary. While I'm not an anthropologist, this book is geared toward the layperson. What I really liked about it is that it looks at Icelandic society from a very different perspective, and gave me a lot of fresh ideas to consider. His book could have benefitted from some editing, but it is a very worthwhile read. You won't agree with everything he says, but you'll find many thought-provoking ideas.

Apr 22, 2006

Summer at Little Lava: A Season at the Edge of the World
by Charles Fergus
1998



illustration: Petur Baldvinsson


Charles Fergus introduces us to Iceland's moods, it's flora and fauna, it's seasons of death and rebirth. Fergus himself journeys from death to rebirth as he learns to accept the unacceptable and unthinkable: the violent death of his mother. He quotes Halldor Laxness:

"Who could take your mother away from you? How could your mother leave you? What's more, she is closesr to you the older you become and the longer it is since she died."

Fergus, his wife and young son rehabilitate a rustic cement house located on land that had been farmed for six centuries. Hiking, kayaking, and contemplation are Fergus' main occupations during his summer of healing.

Fergus includes a line from a poem that an Icelander shared with him: "You have not lived until you have stayed awake a summer's night in Iceland."

Do you think it is true?

Apr 20, 2006

Dreaming of Iceland: The Lure of a Family Legend
by Sally Magnusson, Hodder & Stoughton, 2004.



Rating: 4 puffins!

Scottish journalist and broadcaster Sally Magnusson explores her Icelandic roots with her father, the famous Magnus Magnusson, as she convinces her father to accompany her on an odyssey back to Reykjavík and the old homeplace at Laxamýri.

Magnus is well known as the 25-year veteran of BBC's Mastermind quiz show, and is highly respected as the translator of works of Halldor Laxness, and many Icelandic sagas. He is portrayed as a brilliant, irascible individual. It is a pleasure discovering Magnus through the eyes of his daughter.

The journey takes only 4 days but encompasses several lifetimes, literally! Sally interweaves her history and that of her parents, and as the pilgrimage takes place she interposes family stories ... some of which turn out to be true, some which fade in the light of scrutiny, and some which turn out to be more interesting than the family sagas which emanated from them.

Early in the journey Sally discovers something essential about her father, when she unwittingly disparages Icelandic moss as being "sickly green."

"The moss matters to Icelanders," Sally’s father tells her, and she realizes that he is "pre-emptively offended on his countrymen’s behalf ..." [See my similar reaction to Bourdain's film, below. You don't need to remind me that Icelanders are not my countrymen. I only forgot for a moment.]

Sally, meanwhile, proceeds to refer to Icelandic moss in increasingly glowing and laudatory terms throughout the book, at regular intervals. On the way to the Blue Lagoon, the road 'takes us across miles of grotesquely formed lava where heroism beyond the call of duty has long been demanded of the moss.'

Other highlights: Magnus relates his father meeting his future wife at a perfume counter in Reykjavík, where she sold him a bottle of 4711 (one of my favorite perfumes, which also happens to be a cologne when used by men). The Magnussons are related to the builder/founder of the Hótel Borg, who also happens to be the Strongest Man in Iceland and a glíma wrestler: Jóhannes Jósefsson (Jóhannes á Borg). They are related as well to Jóhann Sigurjónsson, a famous Icelandic playwright and poet, and the grandson of Laxamyri's founder.

Sally provides what could be the ideal epitaph for this book when she quotes Pastor Jon from Laxness' Christianity at Glacier as follows, "The closer you try to approach the facts through history, the deeper you sink into fiction." --Also a suitable motto for my husband's genealogy research!

Apr 3, 2006

How do I learn Icelandic?

Rating: 4 puffins

It appears that Icelandic is impossibly difficult to learn! But not to fear: Daisy L. Neijmann makes it as palatable as possible. Colloquial Icelandic: The Complete Course for Beginners consists of a book, and an audiocassette or CD. It is about $50. for the set, and there are three reasons to buy it: 1) explanations are clear, and progression of the course well-paced, 2) the narrator has a lovely voice (apparently she's British), and 3) Daisy Neijmann is the Halldor Laxness (my favorite author!) Lecturer in Icelandic at University College London. Buy both the book and the recording.

FIF

Bless means "bye."